WOOL TO YARN
Wool from the shoulder and flank sections is regarded as the most desirable fleece on the sheep. Sheep from mountain regions have longer fleece. Winter fleece produces thicker and heavier wool, while spring fleece is softer and finer. Lambs aged 8 to 14 months produce some of the finest wool, called "kork."
The preparation of the wool also has much to do with the appearance of the final product. Proper shearing guarantees maximum fiber length. This is usually done on the farm by a skilled shearer. With fast electric hand clippers similar to large barber’s shears, a good shearer can remove the fleece from a sheep in about 5 minutes. The shearer usually peels the fleece off in one piece. Fine and medium–fine wools of longer staple lengths (more than three inches) usually go to make lightweight worsted suit and dress fabrics. Coarser and shorter fibers (less than three inches) usually go into bulky sweater and carpet yarns.
The next step in the process is washing, or "scouring." Scouring removes grease (unrefined lanolin), vegetable matter, and other impurities that gather in the wool from the range, feedlot, or shearing floor. A set of rakes moves the fleece through a series of scouring tubs of soap and water. Impurities can account for 30 to 70 percent of raw (unscoured) fleece’s weight. The first wash waters are warmed up to 140°F and are followed by a cold rinse. Then squeeze rollers and a hot–air drying chamber bring the moisture content to the right level for the next step in the process, which is carding.
